The guy in the corner of the bar has a gaping headwound. It looks as if someone has only recently removed the axe. Yet even so, he’s chatting happily with his wife – cupping her hand in his – and with two others people at the table. This would probably seem strange under normal circumstances but the fact is that things are going to get a hell of a lot stranger over the course of the next week in this little Austrian town. Our axe-attack victim was no doubt a model for this afternoon’s prosthetics workshop and I’m having my mind blown at the World Bodypainting Festival.